VINEYARDS
It seemed impossible to us to have a farm in Tuscany without venturing into the folly of wine production and so in 2004 we began that journey with the fortunate introduction to an agronomist by the name of Remigio Bordini. With twenty years of experience in fruit, another twenty in grapes, and several immersed in the principles of organic farming, it seemed we would be in good hands. The relationship began cautiously, with many hours spent in conversation over meals, walking the property, studying the vegetation, the soil and each other. We knew nothing of the planting of vineyards or of enology, and so in a way this gentle man from Emilia Romagna had found the perfect blank canvas on which to go to work.
It is amongst Tuscans considered somewhat of a travesty to listen to a non-Tuscan, particularly in matters of vines. Bordini however had managed to find his way to a handful of estates in the area, or they had been fortunate enough to find him, and he had, against all odds, produced award winning wines. In Petraia he saw a unique opportunity to create a small winery with limited production in which the land, undisturbed as it had been for so many decades, would be given a chance to speak through wines produced not in the cantina, as modern large producers must do, but in the vineyards, much as the tiny clos or plots of Burgundy had historically done.
While planning and planting vineyards is a complex business involving decisions about root stock, clones, plant spacing, row spacing and direction, nurturing and protecting them, particularly organically, is every bit as challenging. Enter Marco Panichi, the second stroke of good fortune to arrive at Petraia. With five years of agronomical study and research at the Universita' di Firenze and as many years in the field, Dr. Panichi stumbled upon the perfect property to put into practice the theories he had formulated over those years. As a result we have come to sleep well at night comforted in the knowledge that the vines are in the best of hands.
In total Petraia’s vineyards comprise approximately 7 hectares (17 acres) planted at altitudes of 600 to 700 meters.
The first parcel of 1.2 hectares was completed in 2005. It is divided into two fields, called ‘Primo’ and ‘Estruschi’, which, like all the vineyard sites at Petraia, had seen only grains and wild grasses for over 40 years. Planting was carried out without working or fertilizing the soil, taking great care to preserve the organic equilibrium nature had created. Grape varieties include one of the most traditional Chianti clones of Sangiovese, Merlot, Rebo (a cross of Teraldago and Merlot) and a small part Syrah. There are 6,000 plants per hectare. The training method is ‘testucchio’, a form that imitates the ancient method inherited from the Etruscans and that is still seen occasionally in Tuscany, in which field maple trees are trained and used to support the vines.
The remaining vines were planted in 2006 and 2007, continuing to honor the precious fertility that came from Petraia’s long agricultural dormancy, even though in this case the fields were lightly worked before planting. Density here is 7,500 plants per hectare and the two forms of training the vines are ‘candelabro’ and ‘alberello’. Both factors are designed to limit the quantity of grapes and elevate the quality.
‘Candelabro’ is a system that trains three principle branches of the plant into the shape of a candelabra from which the annual shoots grow up into a series of horizontal wires. In ‘alberello’, on the other hand, each plant grows up around a single pole and takes the shape of a small ‘tree’ of grapes.
The varieties in ‘alberello’, a Sangiovese more typical of northern Chianti and less percocious, and Ancellotta, recently introduced to Chianti primarily for coloration, take up one hectare of dry stone wall terraces. The balance of red wine grapes consists of 3.5 hectares, is grown in the ‘candelabro’ fashion and includes two early maturing clones of Sangoivese, additional Ancellotta and other local varieties.
The two remaining fields, ‘Lavanda’ and ‘Segreto’, make up a hectare of white wine grapes and also utilize ‘candelabro’. Varieties here include Viognier, Incrocio Manzoni (Manzoni Bianco) and Moscato.
All of Petraia’s vineyards are certified organic and are maintained according to strict organic principles using only organic substances to manage soil fertility, mechanical means to control weed growth and minimal amounts of sulfur and copper to combat infestations. Fortunately the altitude of the vineyards offers us protection against many of the problems that plague plants at lower altitudes.
2007 brought us our first harvest and, modest as it was, we found ourselves embarking on the long journey of producing wines of great quality and distinction with the unique voice of La Petraia.
We began in 2009 to maintain the vines, along with all the plants on the property, according to the principles of biodynamic agriculture.
OLIVE TREES
No true Tuscan farm would be complete without olive trees. While historically an altitude of some 700 meters above sea level would have discouraged the cultivation of olives, both advancements in frost resistant strains and global warming have contributed to the opportunities now available to us at Petraia. And so, in 2007, under the guidance of our full time director and resident agronomist, Marco Panichi, whose primary focus has been olives for many years, we planted some 150 trees and four varieties. All are resistant to cold and produce a very delicate, aromatic oil. Leccio del Como is typical of Chianti, Ravece of central and southern Itlay, Biancheria of the Adriatic peninsula of Istria, and Verzola a clone of the common Tuscan variety Frantoio.
LAVENDER
The first thing a visitor generally notices passing through the gates of Petraia is the field of lavender fanning out in orderly rows either side of the drive. These aromatic violet colored plants are harvested in July and, through a distillation process, produce a unique organic essential oil used in our kitchens, in massage and aromatherapy, and in the guest soaps at La Petraia. While the bulk of our production is sold wholesale, we keep a small amount to make available to guests of the agriturismo.
FRUIT TREES
Finally two of the terraces nearest the house are planted with a variety of fruit trees typical of the Chianti region. The planting was completed in 2007 in collaboration with the Province of Siena, whose program to recover antique heirloom varieties includes propagating those types identified in Renaissance paintings and frescos or those found on ancient estates no longer identifiable by name. Our young trees include four apples and a pear yet to be named by the Province. While these strains may not be highly productive, they are extremely old and have proven resistant to infestation as well as climatic and atmospheric challenges, perfect for organic production.
